Sunday, September 28, 2014

Saint Cirq-Lapopie to Lascabanes

Leaving Cambrerets on Thursday, we climbed up a rocky path which eventually led to the Pech Merle Caves. Unfortunately we didn't get a tour in English, as we would have had to reserve two days ahead, but we were given an easy to read booklet to carry with us, which was fine. The tour took about an hour, and was well worth it! We saw many drawings that were very well preserved, and dated back 25,000 years. The caves were beautiful, with so many different shapes of stalactites and stalagmites. We thought they did a good job with the lighting, as it was subtle, and they limit the number of people walking through at any given time, so it did not feel crowded. We highly recommend this stop on the Chemin, but book ahead if you want to be sure to have a guided tour in English! No photos are allowed, but there are some on the website, pechmerle.com.

It was about noon by the time we finished our tour, and with a chocolate bar to fortify us (no food for sale at the caves!) we hit the trail. In Bouzies we were hoping to find food, but no luck, it was afternoon and the only restaurant was closed. We sat in the park by the river and cleaned up our remaining emergency rations - trail mix, nuts and cereal bars. It was not satisfying, but kept us going which was the main thing. The walk to Saint Cirq was stunning. It follows the river Lot, and part of the path has literally been carved out of the rock. Eventually a steep path takes you up to the village, and we had the unfortunate luck to get stuck behind a large walking group! This has happened to us a couple of times now. We had enough energy (after eating some food) to explore the village after we had checked into our hotel, and took quite a few photos of the older medieval buildings there.

Walking to Bouzies on the way to Saint Cirq.
Path carved out of the rock on the way to Saint Cirq
Church in Saint Cirq
Saint Cirq houses (cemetery behind)
Leaving Saint Cirq in the early morning mist
On the way to Pasturat
The next day (Friday) we walked to Les Mazuts, which is about 5 km past Pasturat. We had booked a Chambre d'hôtes that was in the middle of nowhere, but the distance worked out for us, so it was fine. We ate dinner "en famille" that night with the owner and her fourteen year old daughter. Had roast duck legs, mashed potato & celery root, green salad, goat cheese, and an apple tart. Oh, and rosé wine. Interesting dinner conversation, as we were all struggling to communicate!

Yesterday (Saturday) was a beautiful walk to Cahors, about 15 km, and we chose the alternate route in MMDD which follows the river. We enjoyed it so much - the path meanders through trees, beside huge vegetable gardens, and of course the river is lovely too. The main route into town goes up a small mountain, so I'm sure the views of the city would be great, but we wanted flat terrain yesterday! We thought Cahors was a beautiful city. On the way to our hotel we found stores to purchase all the items we had needed for sometime, but couldn't buy in the small villages we've been staying in lately. Most of them don't even have grocery stores, and there is not one pharmacy in the Cele Valley. Once our errands were completed, we did a bit of sightseeing, and then bumped into some pilgrim friends at a sidewalk cafe. They introduced us to some people we hadn't met yet, and we all ended up having dinner together. It was so enjoyable! Of the seven people, there were three Canadians, one American, one German, and two Aussies. The Aussie couple were staying in Cahors for a rest day today, so we're hoping we see them again. Some of the others are staying at the same place we are at tonight (Gite-Chambre d'hôtes Le Bouy) which is in Lascabanes.

Our feet are holding up, and we're happy to be back on the GR65 again. Weather has been perfect, although rain is forecast for tomorrow. Perhaps the ponchos will get used for the first time this trip! Will provide another update when we're in a wifi zone.

Village of Lamagdelaine, across the river from the trail

Serious gardens & greenhouses on the outskirts of Cahors
Entering Cahors - view across the river
Valentre bridge, Cahors
Pilgrim dinner in Cahors
 

 

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