Maslacq to Ostabat

Yesterday was a good day! We only had to walk 15 km, plus there weren't a lot of hills to climb, so we could just enjoy the scenery. A lot of our walking in the morning was in forests, and at one point we met a local couple who were out mushroom hunting, specifically for Cepes. Despite our challenge with speaking French, we managed to have a conversation with them, and they were anxious to show us the two Cepe mushrooms they had found earlier. We have since read up on them, and they are related to the porcini mushrooms in Italy, and are highly valued for cooking. They grow in pine forests, and are very hard to spot as they are usually under the dead pine needles. We have noticed many vehicles parked in the forests we have passed through, and assumed they were hunting animals, but now realize they could have been after the Cepes. Recently we were in a nice restaurant for lunch and had Cepe mushroom omelettes, and they were wonderful.

Cepes mushrooms

We also saw some interesting "treehouses" in the forest, and assume they are for hunters. There were some signs posted on the trees about being silent, but of course we didn't understand the entire message on the signs. We saw a man climbing down the long ladder from one of these treehouses, and he was carrying both a shotgun and a basket.

Long way down

Last night we stayed in a "farm" gite that had been recommended to us, and it was very interesting. It is a "purpose-built" gite, a renovated farmhouse that is now spacious and bright, with all the things that a pilgrim needs. The communal areas included a large dining room, a lounge area with nice leather furniture as well as laundry facilities, bathroom area with multiple shower stalls, toilets and sinks (with soap!!), and about ten dorm rooms with 2-6 beds in each one. The gite was located on a hill that had great views of the countryside, and there were decks and outside areas to sit as well. There was food available to purchase, so Russ and I had a nice little bottle of wine along with some bread and cheese for a late lunch after we arrived. There were ten guests last night, a group of French people, a German couple, and us. Dinner was wonderful....we started with an aperitif, which was cassis wine and a small dish of peanuts. The appetizer was a wonderful smooth mixed vegetable soup, main course was roast pork, green salad and creamed carrots. A huge cheese platter followed, with probably ten different cheeses on it - too bad we were full by then! Following that was dessert, a tiny chocolate cupcake and a slice of fruit tart. The owner is obviously a very good cook, and manages to look after her two small children while working in the kitchen baking goodies or preparing meals. I was impressed!

Today was a more challenging day, longer, with more hills, and warmer (high of 26 degrees). When we left the gite this morning, we followed the regular GR65, and realized sometime later that our distance would have been much shorter if we had taken the alternate route that starts in the town of Aroue, but it would have meant some additional highway walking to get to the town. The scenery and views were beautiful however, so it was worth the extra effort I think. We are definitely in sheep country, so it is already reminding us of the scenery around St. Jean Pied-de-Port, and the beginning of our Camino. Further down the trail we opted to take the Uhart-Mixe route, so that saved us a few kilometres, plus we were able to have lunch there, where we reconnected with our German friends from the night before. We will see them again tomorrow in St. Jean Pied-de-Port.

Sunrise from the gite

Pyrenees getting closer

These two were very friendly and were sporting cowbells!

Spectacular countryside

Entrance to Uhart-Mixe

Interesting clouds just before Ostabat

Tonight we are in the village of Ostabat, in a Chambre d'hôtes called Auberge Ametzanea. So far it seems pretty rustic, but we will see what dinner is like tonight. As far as we know, we are the only guests. Cows are mooing outside, and the church is chiming nearby. Hopefully both will be quiet tonight!

Tomorrow we will enjoy the final day of walking, and perhaps do a bit of celebrating with some of the people we have met recently. Bon nuit from the foothills of the Pyrenees.

 

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